LLyn Cau as the path heads south and climbs around the corrie
My walking friends and I talked about climbing another big mountain having walked Pen y Fan some years ago. I’m less keen as I’m the oldest, least fit and as the one who has planned most of our trips across the relative gentility and safety of Dartmoor, the Black Mountains or South Downs, so the prospect of a major hill was a little daunting – particularly given the vagaries of UK weather. But the consensus was for a weekend in July for the best likelihood of a sunny, dry trip and Snowdonia in North Wales as our playground for the weekend, specifically with our sights on Cadair Idris/Penygadair as it’s quieter than Mount Snowdon. We based ourselves in the seaside town of Barmouth which has a great coastline, views of the looming mountains, pubs, supermarket and fish and chips. On arrival we had a late afternoon stroll in the Rhinogs, which gave us a taster of the wonderful walking in Snowdonia.
The forecast was for perfect weather as we left Barmouth after breakfast next day with packs as light as possible, intending to park in the Lay by east of the walk on the on the A487 but this was populated by a gaggle of oversized camper vans who saw this as their domain for a few days and together with early arrivals there was no parking, so we headed for the capacious Visitor Centre car park (with loos) at the foot of the mountain (map below) and revisited our route, on reflection, a good option as it is from here that the iconic Minffordd Path starts, which follows the course of a tumbling mountain stream through stunning pine woods up a great many steps before the open uplands below the summit.
Clockwise from top left: Looking back down the stream. LLyn Cau as the path climbs to the south. Looking east from the grit path above LLyn Cau. The trig point at the summit with Barmouth Estuary in the background. LLyn Cau seen through gaps in the cliffs as you climb around the corrie.
It’s a 700ft climb heading north before view opens up and the route leaves the stream, the path relatively easy grit/grass as you head west toward LLyn Cau, a water filled corrie under the looming flanks of the mountain’s peak. The path climbs to the south and up, then to the west, ever climbing at the same rate, round LLyn Cau as fabulous views to the south and east are revealed. We took a break here and had tea as, while we had only travelled about a mile and a half, we had climbed 1500 ft, half the overall height of the mountain. RAF jets cruised below us practicing their low-level skills through the valleys – amazing to see. Besides, we had all day and wanted to enjoy the views at leisure.
At Cwm Amarch the path climbs northward along the well defined route until the path becomes a lot rockier as you approach the summit. A last push and you reach the trig point from where the views are just pectacular. North you can sea the Barmouth estuary round to the tip of the LLeyn Peninsular, Snowdon and countless other peaks of mountains in the National Park. To the South all of Mid Wales is at your feet. There is a hut just below the summit which made for a pleasant break from the strong wind. We took in the sights, took photos, had lunch then headed east as we decided to make our route circular rather than retrace our steps. It was invigorating to be striding west across the level, grassy plateau, peak bagged, toward Mynydd Moel before bearing right along a small track heading south east which hugged the contours before descending a steep set of steps/path about a mile from the summit which was really hard going for about half a mile as you descend about a thousand feet. The path then takes a right south west along a fence/wall line heading back to the wooded stream and the steps back to the visitor centre and car park.
Clockwise from top left: The plateau looking east from the summit towards Mynydd Moel, our path bearing to the right. The steps on the descent which must have taken an immense effort to put in place. The steep track from the plateau to the steps. A break to absorb the views to the south before bearing right back into the valley, stream and steps. Looking back towards Cadair Idris from the descent.
Cadair Idris and a short walk in the the remote Rhinogs the day before made this one of our favourite trips. This is an iconic walk and we were really lucky to get the weather for the entire day. We were all kitted out but saw families making the climb with the bare minimum but even in July it was a hat and coat experience in the cool wind at the top. We agreed we wouldn’t consider attempting this in anything other than good dry, warm summer conditions with a long day key to the enjoyment, kit apart, particularly as the steep descent from the plateau as the steps/path would be treacherous in the wet. We would like to climb Cadair Idris again using the Pony Path to the North. All in all a fabulous day. Diolch/Thank you Cymru.
Cadair Idris from Barmouth the morning after our walk
Walking, hills, pics and things 